https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqL0RoWW7i4&function=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3GAazo7xTc&function=youtu.be
“RIP Skeleton” is a 3D printed Halloween themed “Do Nothing Field”. Merely press the purple button, and RIP Skeleton arises purple confronted from his candle illuminated coffin to “press” the purple button and return to darkness for his “relaxation in peace”.
The design is paying homage to the electro-mechanical pinball machines I repaired for an area leisure distributor whereas attending faculty some 40 years in the past (we nonetheless have a completely practical electro-mechanical “Captain Unbelievable” pinball machine, circa 1976, in our recreation room). As an alternative of a utilizing a micro controller and servos, this electro-mechanical mannequin makes use of a single motor and a two lobe camshaft to manage the straightforward animation and lighting by way of two micro curler switches following the camshaft lobes. This strategy vastly extends the battery life as when the mannequin is idle, it attracts no present from the dual AAA battery energy provide. Observe that RIP Skelton doesn’t truly “press” the purple button as his arm is simply too frail. He merely makes use of “thoughts over matter” (e.g. a curler swap on a cam lobe) to press the button.
As common, I most likely forgot a file or two or who is aware of what else, so if in case you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask as I do make loads of errors.
Designed utilizing Autodesk Fusion 360, sliced utilizing Cura 4.2, and printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 2+ Prolonged and in PLA and PVA on an Ultimaker 3 Prolonged.
Provides.
I used the next provides:
• Thick cyanoacrylate glue.
• Skinny cyanoacrylate glue.
• Cyanoacrylate glue accelerant.
• Mild machine oil.
• Salvaged CAT5 twisted pair 24AWG stranded wire (28AWG stranded wire is best for its flexibility).
• Solder.
Purchase, Print and Put together the Elements.
This mannequin makes use of the next non-3D printed elements:
• One 2 AAA battery holder with swap (seek for “2 AAA Battery Holder with Swap”).
• Two AAA batteries.
• One N20 6VDC 150RPM gear motor.
• Two salvaged tea lamp LEDs and flame lenses.(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T28FWVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
• Two clear shiny purple 3mm LEDs (my elements bin).
• Two 100ohm 1/4 watt resistors (my elements bin).
• Two micro curler switches (seek for “CYT1096”).
• One micro lever swap (seek for “CYT1073”).
• Two M2 by 10mm cap screws with nuts (native ironmongery shop).
• Two M2.5 by 20mm cap screws with nuts (native ironmongery shop).
• Wire (28AWG stranded is most popular, I used salvaged CAT5 24AWG stranded).
For the 3D printed elements, I’ve included the file “RIP 3D Printed Elements Listing” containing the half names, rely, layer top, infill and assist settings for the elements I printed. Observe I printed “Skeleton, Head.stl” and “Skeleton.stl” with helps. I printed each of those elements with PVA (water soluble) assist utilizing the Cura 4.2 “In every single place” assist setting with wonderful outcomes. I additionally printed each of those elements with PLA assist utilizing the Cura 4.2 “Touching Buildplate” assist setting with fairly good outcomes as proven within the “Skeleton.stl” comparability {photograph}. Remember the fact that when utilizing PLA assist, you have to use the “Touching Buildplate” assist setting or the skeleton “backbone” will probably be blocked with PLA assist filament and thus grow to be incapable of accepting wiring for the top LED. There are two camshafts, “Camshaft 75.stl” and “Camshaft 150.stl”, the primary being for a 75RPM motor and the second a 150RPM motor.
It is a excessive precision print and meeting mannequin utilizing at instances very small elements and in very tight areas. Previous to meeting, take a look at match and trim, file, sand, and so forth. all elements as needed for clean motion of transferring surfaces, and tight match for non transferring surfaces. Relying on you printer, your printer settings and the colours you selected, kind of trimming, submitting and/or sanding could also be required. Rigorously file all edges that contacted the construct plate to make completely sure that each one construct plate “ooze” is eliminated and that each one edges are clean. I used small jewelers recordsdata and loads of endurance to carry out this step.
The mannequin additionally makes use of threaded meeting, so I used a faucet and die set (6mm by 1, 8mm by 1.25) for thread cleansing.
I used small dots of thick cyanoacrylate glue to connect the skeleton left arm to the torso, connect the handles and letters to the case, safe the wiring to the bottom and to safe threads if wanted. I additionally used gentle machine oil for lubrication of the gears, pins and axles.
Salvage the Tea Lamps.
The mannequin makes use of the flickering LED and the flame lens from the tea lamp I salvaged. To acquire these elements, disassembly of the tea lamp is required. To disassemble the tea lamp, I carried out the next steps:
• Eliminated the battery cowl and battery from the tea lamp.
• Used a small screwdriver to take away the duvet from tea lamp.
• Used a small screwdriver to take away the lens from the tea lamp cowl.
• Eliminated the LED and swap from the tea lamp base.
• Eliminated the swap from the LED.
Assemble the Skeleton.
To assemble the skeleton, I aligned “Skeleton, Forearm, Left.stl” with “Skeleton.stl” and secured in place with very small dots of thick cyanoacrylate glue. After curing, I reenforced the joint with extra thick cyanoacrylate glue.
Relying on in your printer, your printer settings and the colours you selected, you could want to reenforce all the left arm with skinny cyanoacrylate glue for extra energy.
Assemble the Base.
To assemble the bottom, I carried out the next steps:
• Connected the push button lever swap (CYT1073) to “Base.stl” utilizing two M2 by 10 bolts and nuts, hooked up the motor and pushbutton LED curler switches (CYT1096) to the bottom meeting utilizing two M2.5 by 20 bolts and nuts, and pressed the motor into the motor mount in base meeting.
• Soldered a 100mm size of twisted pair blue and white/blue wire to the push button lever swap and routed the wires below the motor mount and out the left facet.
• Soldered a 100mm size of twisted pair blue and white/blue wire to the motor “+” and “-” terminals and routed the wires between the camshaft mounts and out the left facet.
• Soldered the push button lever swap white/blue wire to terminal 1 of the motor curler swap, then soldered the push button lever swap blue wire to terminal 3 of the motor curler swap.
• Soldered the motor blue/white wire to terminal 3 of the motor curler swap.
• Soldered the battery holder black wire to terminal 1 of the motor curler swap and pushbutton LED swap.
• Twisted the battery holder purple wire and motor blue wire collectively (extra wires will probably be added later).
• Put in two AAA batteries within the battery again and turned the battery again on/off swap to on.
• Activated the motor curler swap and checked the motor rotation for counter clockwise rotation when considered from the motor shaft finish of the motor. If the motor was not working counter clockwise, I swapped the wires on the motor “+” and “-” terminals.
• Activate the push button lever swap to ensure the motor turned counter clockwise as considered from the motor shaft finish of the motor.
• Turned the battery pack on/off swap to off.
• Positioned “Camshaft.stl” between the camshaft towers within the base meeting then firmly secured in place by threading “Gear, Camshaft.stl” to the camshaft from the rear camshaft tower and “Axle, Camshaft.stl” to the camshaft from the entrance camshaft tower.
• Pressed “Gear, Motor.stl” onto the motor shaft and aligned the motor and kit meeting with “Gear, Camshaft.stl”.
• Turned the battery pack on/off swap to on.
• Activated the push button swap and made certain the camshaft rotated 360 levels then stopped within the off place. If not, I adjusted the place of the motor and LED pushbutton curler switches.
• Turned the battery pack on/off swap to off.
• Made certain the camshaft was within the off place.
Add the Skeleton to the Base.
So as to add the skeleton to the bottom, I carried out the next steps:
• Minimize a 180mm size of orange and white/orange twisted pair wire.
• Soldered a 100ohm resistor to the cathode lead of one of many 3mm LEDs,
• Soldered the white/orange result in the free finish of the 100omh resistor.
• Soldered the orange result in the anode lead of the 3mm LED and insulated with warmth shrink tubing.
• Slid the free ends of the wiring down the backbone of “Skeleton.stl”.
• Threaded “Pin, Mount, Skeleton.stl” into “Mount, Skeleton.stl”.
• Threaded the skeleton head LED wiring by way of the skeleton mount, by way of “Gear, Crown, Axle.stl” (flat facet first), below the motor mount and out the left facet.
• Pressed “Gear, Crown, Axle.stl” onto the hexagonal shaft on the skeleton such that the skeleton rotated easily on the mount however not free. When correctly adjusted, a small dot of thick cyanoacrylate glue could also be required to safe the gear on the skeleton.
• Positioned the mount onto the bottom surrounding the mount towers.
• Threaded “Axle, Mount, Skelton.stl” by way of the rear mount tower and the mount meeting then into the bottom meeting.
• With the skelton within the full down place, positioned “Gear, Crown, Base.stl” on the interior floor of the entrance mount tower and secured in place by threading “Axle, Gear, Crown, Mount, Skeleton.stl” by way of the mount meeting then into the gear. This gear should stay in place with out rotating.
• Checked without cost and correct motion of the skeleton by lifting and decreasing the meeting utilizing “Pin, Mount, Skeleton.stl”.
• With the skelton within the full down place and the camshaft within the off place, hooked up “Arm.stl” to “Gear, Camshaft.stl” within the camshaft gear gap closest to the arm mounting gap within the skeleton mount meeting, utilizing one “Axle, Arm.stl”.
• Connected the remaining finish of “Arm.stl” to the skeleton mount meeting utilizing the remaining “Axle, Arm.stl”.
• Checked to ensure the camshaft was within the off place and the skeleton was within the full down place.
• Soldered the white/orange wire from the top LED to the motor curler swap terminal 3.
• Twisted the orange wire from the top LED to the beforehand twisted battery holder purple wire (extra wires will probably be added later).
• Turned the battery holder swap on.
• Pressed the push button lever swap to ensure the skeleton rose, rotated, and lowered with out pressure or binding, and the top LED illuminated throughout all the cycle.
• Turned the battery pack on/off swap to off.
Add the Pushbutton Lever to the Base.
So as to add the push button lever to the bottom, I carried out the next steps:
• Minimize a 150mm size of inexperienced and white/inexperienced twisted pair wire.
• Positioned the remaining 3mm LED by way of the holes in “Lever, Pushbutton.stl”.
• Soldered the inexperienced wire to the LED anode lead.
• Soldered a 100ohm resistor to the LED cathode lead.
• Solderer the white/inexperienced wire to the free finish of the 100ohm resistor.
• Utilized small dots of cyanoacrylate glue to safe the wires and resistor in place.
• Positioned the pushbutton lever meeting in place on the bottom meeting and secured in place with “Axle, Lever, Pushbutton.stl”.
• Routed the wires below the camshaft and out the left facet.
• Soldered the white/inexperienced wire to terminal 3 of the pushbutton LED curler swap.
• Twisted the inexperienced wire to the beforehand twisted battery holder purple wire (extra wires will probably be added later).
• Turned the battery holder on/off swap to on.
• Pressed the pushbutton lever meeting and made certain the mechanism cycled and the pushbutton LED illuminated from the beginning of the cycle then extinguished midway by way of the cycle.
• Turned the battery holder on/off swap to off.
Add the Candles and Skeleton Head.
Observe the tea gentle LEDs I salvaged run straight on 3VDC so no present limiting resistor are required.
So as to add the candles and skeleton head, I carried out the next steps:
• Minimize a 150mm size of orange and white/orange twisted pair wire.
• Soldered the orange wire to the salvaged tea gentle LED anode lead insulating it with warmth shrink tubing.
• Soldered the white/orange wire to the salvaged tea lightLED cathode lead.
• Threaded one “Candle Holder.stl” into the proper rear candle place of the bottom meeting.
• Threaded the wires by way of the candle holder, between the mount towers, below the motor mount, between the camshaft towers and out the left.
• Pressed the salvaged tea lamp flame into one “Adapter, Candle.stl”.
• Pressed the salvaged tea lamp flame led into the tea lamp flame.
• Pressed the meeting into the candle holder.
• Soldered the white/orange wire to terminal 3 of the motor curler swap.
• Twisted the orange wire to the beforehand twisted battery holder purple wire, soldered the bundle collectively, then insulated with warmth shrink tubing.
• Repeated this course of with the left rear candle utilizing a 75mm size of wire.
• Turned the battery holder on/off swap to on.
• Pressed the pushbutton lever meeting and made certain the candles illuminated.
• Turned the battery holder on/off swap to off.
Ultimate Meeting.
For ultimate meeting, I carried out the next steps:
• Positioned “Yoke.stl” over “Pin, Mount, Skeleton.stl” with the lid pin slot in the direction of the entrance.
• Positioned the battery holder inside “Sides.stl”.
• Positioned “Button.stl” in “Sides.stl”.
• Made certain the battery holder on/off swap was off.
• Pressed the pushbutton lever inward.
• Rigorously positioned the edges meeting over the bottom meeting, sliding it downward till absolutely seated with the push button LED centered within the pushbutton.
• Turned the battery holder on/off swap to on.
• Pressed the pushbutton and made certain the mechanism cycled with out binding.
• Pressed the pushbutton, waited till the skeleton was vertical, then instantly turned the battery holder on/off swap to off.
• Threaded “Pin, Lid.stl” into the lid arm from the proper facet of the lid (on the skeleton facet of the lid arm).
• Rigorously positioned the lid pin within the base yoke pin slot, rotated the lid, then positioned the lid hinge pins within the base hinge pin slots.
• Secured the left and proper lid hinge pins in place utilizing the 2 “Axle, Lid.stl”.
As soon as assembled and examined, I hooked up the 4 “Deal with.stl” and “Lid, RIP.stl” to the coffin utilizing small dots of thick cyanoacrylate glue.
And at last, when the batteries expire, how do I open the lid to vary them because the pin slot mechanism holds the lid closed? There’s a 10mm entry gap on rear of “Sides.stl” aligned with the gear motor shaft and motor gear. First, I exploit a flat punch or equal to slip the motor and motor gear towards the entrance of the mannequin simply sufficient to disengage the motor gear from the camshaft gear. Subsequent, utilizing a dental choose, jewelers screwdriver or equal, I rotate the camshaft gear tooth by tooth till the lid is open. As soon as open, I take away the battery holder, substitute the batteries, reinstall the battery holder, and at last reposition the motor and motor gear.
And that’s how I 3D printed and assembled “RIP, Skeleton”.
I hope you get pleasure from it!
